For most of us the arrival of spring is a welcome relief from the cold, dark days of winter. But for hay fever sufferers, it also brings watery eyes, redness and the constant battle to keep make-up intact.
While it may feel like your routine is working against you, small adjustments can make a big difference.
Celebrity make-up artist Ariane Young – whose work includes Strictly Come Dancing – and skincare expert and aesthetic doctor Dr Amiee Vyas say that success lies in light layers and proper, precise application.
So, here are five expert-backed ways to get your make-up to work with allergy season.
1. Build in light layers
When you’re constantly reaching for tissues, heavy make-up is your biggest enemy.
“The key is to work in thin, flexible layers rather than one heavy application,” says Young. She recommends starting with a gripping primer, followed by a lightweight foundation that is stippled into the skin rather than buffed.
Vyas says formulas designed for both longevity and sensitivity are the way forward.
“Start with a gentle hydrating primer to create a smooth base, then follow with a lightweight, long-wear foundation or tinted moisturiser,” she says.
Both stress the importance of setting. A finely milled powder around the nose can help prevent breakdown, while a setting spray locks everything in place.
Blotting papers are also useful for absorbing excess oil without disturbing your base.
A small habit shift can go a long way too, says Young. “Gently pressing the nose with a tissue rather than wiping really helps preserve the make-up.”
Maybelline New York, The Grippy Serum Makeup Primer, £11.99, Boots
Estée Lauder Double Wear Longwear Matte Foundation SPF 10, £29.50 (was £39.50), Look Fantastic
2. Use colour correction, not coverage
Redness is one of the most common complaints during hay fever season – but layering on more of your regular concealer isn’t the answer.
“Colour correction is your best friend,” says Young. A sheer green corrector can neutralise redness around the nose, while a lightweight concealer works better under the eyes than heavy foundation.
Vyas also recommends this, suggesting peach or green tones depending on your skin tone. “Look for lightweight formulas that won’t cake, and hydrating concealers with a natural finish,” she says.
She also highlights the benefits of skincare-led solutions; “cooling eye gels can soothe puffiness and irritation without adding extra make-up,” she notes.
The goal is to subtly balance the skin tone rather than mask it completely.
“Less is often more when the skin is already sensitive,” says Vyas.
Typology Colour Corrector for Redness T33, £27.50
Nars Radiant Creamy Concealer, £29.50
3. Avoid common irritants
When your skin is already reactive, certain ingredients can make symptoms worse.
“Harsh preservatives and alcohol can aggravate sensitive skin and make irritation worse,” says Vyas, while Young agrees noting that “Fragrance is a big trigger, especially around the eyes.”
She advises caution with heavy essential oils, alcohol-heavy products and some waterproof formulas that require strong removers.
Instead, opt for products labelled fragrance-free, hypoallergenic or suitable for sensitive skin – particularly for the eye area.
Patch-testing new products can also help minimise reactions during peak allergy season.
Clinique High Impact Mascara, £18 (was £26), Look Fantastic
4. Rethink how you apply your make-up
Technique can be the be-all and end-all in how well your make-up holds up – especially in high-friction areas like the nose and under the eyes.
Young recommends avoiding a heavy product directly in the creases of the nose.
“Focus coverage slightly outward and blend inwards very lightly,” she says.
Vyas suggests using gentle tapping motions rather than rubbing, especially around delicate areas. “Avoid building up heavy layers directly on red or inflamed skin – lightly dab and blend instead,” she advises.
Using a damp sponge to press product into the skin can also improve longevity and create a more natural finish.
Under the eyes, keeping product minimal is key. Too much concealer can crease or smudge if eyes begin to water.
“Clean tools are also important,” Vyas emphasises, “using fresh brushes or sponges helps reduce irritation and product build-up.”
Beautyblender The Original Beauty Blender, £13.60 (was £17), Space NK
5. Choose formulas that work with your skin
As mentioned when it comes to irritants, waterproof isn’t always the best solution.
“Waterproof products can be brilliant for preventing smudging, especially mascara,” says Young, “but they’re not always the most comfortable.”
Some formulas can feel drying or require more effort to remove which can aggravate already sensitive eyes.
A gentler alternative is tubing mascara, which coats the lashes in flexible ‘tubes’ that resist tears but slide off easily with warm water.
“It gives you the longevity without the irritation,” she explains.
And if symptoms are particularly severe, it may be worth simplifying your routine altogether.
“If your eyes are really struggling, it’s worth skipping eye make-up like eyeliner or heavy mascara,” says Vyas.
Young suggests skipping mascara and instead “make a focal point of the lips instead.”
A bold lip can draw attention away from problem areas while still creating a put-together make-up look with minimal effort.
Revolution Beauty Lip Allure Soft Satin Lipstick CEO Brick Red, £5.99