South Korea’s K-beauty sector is evolving to meet growing international demand for more inclusive products, as fans of K-pop and Korean culture push for cosmetics suitable for a wider range of skin tones.
While K-beauty has been one of Korea’s top cultural exports, it has historically focused on lighter skin tones and promoted products with models who are thin, young, and fair-skinned.
The industry is gradually catching up to the global trend of diversity in beauty.
Co-founded by Melissa Alfer, Seoul-based brand K+Brown is designed for melanin-rich skin and already has a waitlist of several thousand for its first serum, set to launch at the end of February.
Established brands are also expanding shade ranges. K-beauty brand Tirtir, which initially offered just three foundation shades, now provides 40 shades globally, with custom options available up to 150.
Other homegrown brands like Jung Saem Mool Beauty and Beauty of Joseon have introduced products catering to darker skin tones, while experiential stores in Seoul, such as Amore Seongsu, offer custom foundations and lipsticks for international tourists.
Experts note that the popularity of K-pop and K-dramas continues to drive global interest in K-beauty.
According to Mintel, the sector is worth over $90 billion, with South Korea overtaking France in 2024 as the top beauty exporter to the US.
Retail partnerships, including Olive Young’s expansion to the US and K-beauty concept stores in Europe, have further increased accessibility for diverse consumers.
Industry leaders emphasise that inclusivity is now a guiding principle for growth.
Monica Park, head of Tirtir’s global business division, said expanding shade ranges has led to broader adoption, stronger consumer trust, and increased repeat purchases.
K+Brown’s Alfer adds that her brand aims to represent the diverse global K-pop fanbase, serving customers historically underserved by K-beauty products.